Managing oily skin isn’t just about soaking up shine or fighting breakouts, it’s about balance. While it’s tempting to strip skin bare with a harsh cleanser or overdo it on exfoliation, dermatologists say that approach often does more harm than good. The best skin-care routine for oily skin supports the skin barrier, reduces excess oil production without triggering irritation and includes the right mix of calming and active ingredients.
“Oily skin can be due to a variety of reasons,” explains New York dermatologist Rachel Nazarian, MD, citing natural production based on genetics, reaction to stress levels, medication, humidity and weather conditions, topical skin-care regimen, and hormonal fluctuations as the most common. “Most people with long-term untreated oily skin will notice a gradual enlargement of their pores, and often small skin-colored growths called sebaceous hyperplasias that represent the overactive enlarged oil glands.”
To help us break down the right oily skin routine from morning to night, we spoke to two top dermatologists. Here’s exactly what they recommend.
Featured Experts
- Rachel Nazarian, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in New York
- Dr. Janet Allenby is a board-certified dermatologist in Delray Beach, FL
Step 1: Start With a Gentle Cleanser
One of the most common myths about oily skin is that it needs to be aggressively cleansed. “The biggest mistake made by people with oily skin is to over-wash,” says Dr. Nazarian. “A gentle, unscented cleanser should be used to remove surface oil and bacteria, but without aggressive cleansing of the skin,” she says. “A harsh cleansing product will make it much more difficult to tolerate the rest of the regimen.”
Delray Beach, FL dermatologist Dr. Janet Allenby agrees, adding that while oily skin types often want that “squeaky clean” feeling, going too hard can cause issues. “The cleanser should be somewhat mild. You don’t want to throw off the pH of the skin too aggressively so that irritation occurs,” she says.
Instead of reaching for something overly drying, both experts recommend choosing a calming formula that’s free of fragrance and sulfates. “Look for a cleanser that is gentle and can clean surface oils, but without stripping and irritating skin in the process,” says Dr. Nazarian. “Stronger is not better. Stick to the basics.”
Step 2: Skip the Scrubs
Although exfoliating can feel satisfying—especially when skin is slick—it’s not a necessary step in a well-balanced oily-skin routine. In fact, it can often do more harm than good. “Exfoliating the surface skin cells doesn’t have much impact on oil production,” says Dr. Nazarian. “You cannot wash your way to less oil production! This is one step that oily skin can skip.”
If you’re looking to streamline your routine or eliminate steps that aren’t pulling their weight, this is one to consider dropping.
Step 3: Add in Oil-Regulating Actives
Once skin is clean and calm, you can start layering in the ingredients that actually make a difference when it comes to oil regulation. According to Dr. Nazarian, it’s not about scrubbing or stripping, it’s about leave-on ingredients that help the skin function better long-term.
“It’s best to look for ingredients that either downregulate oil production, shrink oil glands or absorb oil and give skin a matte appearance,” she says. “Some of the best ingredients are sulfur, retinoids and salicylic acid.”
Dr. Allenby adds that these ingredients are typically well-tolerated by oily skin types. “Oily skin people do tend to tolerate retinol and antioxidants well to also help them with their skin health,” she says.
Step 4: Don’t Skip Moisturizer
It’s easy to assume that oily skin doesn’t need more moisture, but skipping hydration can make things worse. When skin lacks moisture, it may produce even more oil to compensate. That’s why both dermatologists recommend incorporating a lightweight hydrator daily.
“Water-based products are best,” says Dr. Allenby. “Skin-care routines for those with oily skin logically do best without oils or greasier components that you may find in ointments or creams. Their product should be water-based serums and creams, in general.”
Dr. Nazarian emphasizes the importance of barrier support: “Ingredients like hyaluronic acid or ceramides are wonderful because they ensure that skin is hydrated and balanced. They also allow skin to tolerate many other aspects of the anti-oil regimen that are normally quite irritating.”
The key is choosing oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturizers that provide hydration without the heaviness.
Step 5: Incorporate a Retinoid
If there’s one ingredient oily skin tends to do well with, it’s retinoids. Whether you’re looking to minimize breakouts or reduce shine, retinoids can help balance oil production and improve overall skin texture over time.
“For people with oily skin, a retinol or retinoid can also be very helpful,” says Dr. Nazarian. “Although it can certainly be worked into other parts of the regimen, finding a gentle, hydrating retinol is a great place to start for most people. I encourage people to apply it with a moisturizer to ensure tolerability.”
Step 6: Always Wear Sunscreen
The final step in your oily skin routine is sunscreen. Many oily or acne-prone skin types avoid SPF out of fear that it will clog pores or make skin shinier, but with the right formula, that doesn’t have to be the case.
“Since they do make water-based products, those with oily skin should absolutely should be using a hydrator, such as a hyaluronic acid topical, and sunscreen on a daily basis,” says Dr. Allenby. “This is to keep the skin barrier healthy and intact.”
Look for non-comedogenic, oil-free formulas that offer broad-spectrum protection and a matte finish.
Skin-Care Products Ideal for Oily Skin
